[bahorn]

I did the journey in early September, starting in Dushanbe, as part of my backpacking trip throughout Central Asia. Highlight of my trip.

Surprisingly easy to travel as a lone backpacker nowadays as you can arrange transport on the day on all the major stops of the main route. (Dushanbe -> Khrough -> Murghab -> Osh). Cost of the main route was something like $70 in shared taxi costs.

[sutterbomb]

Awesome, glad to hear. I plan on going this summer. The shared costs - did you find other travelers yourself, or the drivers just fill up their 4x4 like a shuttle would anywhere else? Any other tips or thoughts that I might not find in Lonely Planet etc?

[bahorn]

I arranged everything on day I needed to move on (except in Dushanbe where I arranged the transport to Khrough via the hostel, who I just told the night before). Worked even on the Monday after Tajikistan's Independence day (when I needed to head to Murghab), so you shouldn't have many problems.

Just go to whatever the local meeting point early enough and you'll get a ride. Tend to leave by 10-11am IIRC. Try to get the front seat as they'll overpack the cars to an extreme.

I only did the main route and didn't head down to the Wakhan valley, where I gather you need to find people to travel with to cover the costs.

Random tips / things to be aware of:

* Breakdowns seems to be pretty normal. They do know how to fix their cars though so you shouldn't panic. Had this happen twice on the Khrough -> Mughrab section.

* There are some lovely villages on the road to Roshtqala. I did a homestay in Tusen and the scenery around there is amazing. The place marked as "Shokhdara Bus Station" in Khrough on OSM is where you go to get transport here.

* Public transport between closer villages and around Khrough is pretty reliable but it doesn't run on Sundays. Bit of an adventure to get though.

* ATMs exist in Khrough and do accept Visa, but none as far as I'm aware in Mughrab (And the banks weren't open in Mughrab while I was there due to the time of year)

* No accommodation in the Pamirs has persistent internet connectivity, even if they advertise it. It's all 3G/4G connections they leave on only for a few hours a day (if that). This becomes an issue when you need to figure out where to stay in the next place on your route.

* The GBAO permit is cheaper if you do it in Dushanbe and don't get it with your evisa.

* Caravanistan and its forum has so much useful information. Planned my whole trip around the site.