[allsunny]

i started just a few years ago in my mid-30s. i'm proficient: i can paddle and catch my own waves, go up and down "the line", i can stay out of the way (very important :) do turns, etc. i moved to the beach though once i knew i was hooked. i go several times a week, sometimes twice a day. there are guys/gals out there that have been doing it their whole life who i would say... very humbly, that ive surpassed. once i moved to the beach i started progressing super fast. i grew up skateboarding a lot, so i think that has something to do w/ it.

however! i once heard an old surfer describe surfing proficiency vs being good w/ an analogy: "you're fluent in the language, but when you talk, we hear the accent." and, like i said, i skateboarded a lot and that immediately makes sense to me. when i see folks skateboard that learned later in life i can immediately recognize it just by the way they push the board, let alone ride it. i'm ok w/ having an accent.