I have worked in both kinds of projects. Those where the backend was the mess and those where the frontend was it. Good devs, who take care and are given the time to do it right, can create both in clean manner.
I think usually the problem why frontend tends to get messy: There is usually a lot more pressure, unclear goals and instructions involved. And of cause a foundational technology that is already incredibly messy especially if you have a wide browser support goal.
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