I recently bought a tall Kotatsu table from eBay. A kotatsu table has a thick blanket draped over the table frame, while the tabletop sits on top of that. There's a heater on the underside of the frame that heats the enclosed space created by the heavy blanket. You sit with your legs under the blanket and stay nice and warm.
We use it in place of a coffee table and also use it as a dining table. My wife has trouble keeping warm, and she adores this table!
Only downside is that most kotatsu futon are designed for the traditional low table, so finding new covers/blankets is going to be difficult.
But I'm completely sold on the kotatsu concept. Highly recommended for toasty spouses!
Oh, and another cold spouse tip: Bedjet. It's like having your bed sheet made like a hot air balloon! A heater and fan pushes warm (or cold) air into the bag-like sheet. It works much, much faster than a heated blanket and doesn't have wires throughout the sheet that break. Again wins the cold spouse seal of approval.
Cannot escape home insulation and energy efficient ventillation if you want to ensure healthy environment from the humidity point of view. Bathroom, cooking, laundry, and people as well, all will produce humid air that will form mold on cold surfaces of an uninsulated home if not properly ventillated. Where the proper level of ventillation needs to be quite intensive for the desired effect - causing elevated energy loss or requiring supplemental heat preservation techniques - except if low level of heating (temperature) is maintained, which raises other kind of concerns.
Older homes were designed to breath.[1] I live in San Francisco and unfortunately contractors often forget this (or don't care or never think to consider it). For example, painters will often use a non-porous latex on the outside with a common consequence that you'll quickly begin to see mold grow on the internal walls where in bygone years this wouldn't have been a problem. Or the paint may be much more prone to blistering as humidity tries to escape.
Most old homes in SF originally had (or at least were modified 100+ years ago to have) gravity fed heaters--no forced air, and no return registers in each room; just a single giant return register at a low point on a bottom floor. I've spoken with A/C contractors who say that there shouldn't be any serious problems rigging up a forced air system to the output registers, even without proper return registers. And plenty of homes do this. But I guess maybe the real problems come if you then being insulating the home--can the forced-air heating system circulate air quick enough without return registers to compensate for the fact the building no longer naturally ventilates? I imagine in most cases it works well enough, but you're still moderately more likely to see mold problems.
[1] To varying extents. My house was built in 1926, and it seems they used a relatively thin tar paper to wrap the house, or at least part of the house. (Unless that was somehow added much later, but I doubt it as the wall facing an adjacent house a few inches away is papered, and the siding is original on that wall.)
For an A+++ energy rated house, you can't have holes in walls where I live. That means you can't have cooker extractors that extract, you can only have them run the air through a filter. But this is really silly, because a major 'exhaust' is water vapor, which filters don't help with. A more humid house is bad for many reasons, and often results in people opening windows anyway. Yes, an A+++ house also requires air refreshing with energy recovery, but it takes ages to get that sort of humidity out that way. Running an airco just for dehumidification is also expensive.
It's short sighted imho. The extractor is precisely the right place to just move air out for all kinds of health reasons, maybe someone should work on one that recaptures some of the heat (that would also make sense!); I have not yet seen one.
Mechanical ventilation with Heat Recovery (MHVR) mostly solves this. Air is actively exchanged with outside to regulate humidity from cooking etc but heat from the waste air is captured and used to warm the incoming air. These are now standard in homes in the UK.
I recently got a CO2 meter for our living room. The results are shockingly bad. I can't imagine having humidity issues from the sources you cite without also first having unhealthy CO2 levels.
We've settled on always leaving one window slightly open if it is windy outside, or 2-3 on still days.
Or you can buy a dehumidifier (I have Sencor SDH 2020WH). This leaves you "only" with the CO2 problem, which requires less ventilation than to let out moisture (YMMV).
The "clo" seems problematic as a unit. I know people who dress in hoodies in 100 degree weather and don't break a sweat. I know others who are sweating in shorts in the winter. I put out a lot more heat than my wife and yet I _feel_ cold a lot more than she does. Comfortable temperature is too subjective to get its own unit. It strikes me as something that was developed during that period of the early 1900s when they believed all of life could be reduced to a calculation.
people differ. Maybe you need more clo to be comfortable, but still the clo unit is valuable. Similarly you might need more calories than your wife, which doesn't make an unit of calories problematic.
The article acknowledges this: "The most significant factor influencing thermal comfort - even more important than air temperature and clothing - is body heat production" ... "The clo-values given for different indoor air temperatures are thus not more than guidelines - personal differences will occur."
Hot climates: air-liquid heat exchangers with our own blood as the working fluid. Like a dialysis machine, but permanently glued to our backs. Plug ourselves in to turn the fan on, use our power packs on the go. Don't sit down too fast, don't run out of juice.
Cold climates: same idea with an integrated block heater. Now we can sit in your basements in our t shirts and boxers.
Later, our glucose vitamin pumps keep our blood sugar at ideal levels as our digestive tracts atrophy and eventually becomes vestiges.
With relief, we can literally feel the heat and sugar spreading from our centers out towards our extremities as we drop in and power on our headsets...
Much later, we introduce blood oxygenator units to get rid of those troublesome respiratory issues.
Now and in the future, science fiction, pitch deck, and existing tech become blurred together.
I'm shocked and disappointed at how expensive retrofitting insulation into a minimally insulated 1930s Bay Area house actually is. I estimate gas heating costs at around 2500$ / year (nov-march), while insulating floors, walls and roof would cost a shocking 60K$ for an average size 3bdrm.
If the insulation cuts heating cost in half, that's a 1250$ savings per year, meaning a 48 year break even time assuming zero discount rate. It absolutely doesn't make sense to do the work unless there's a massive tax subsidy or contractor costs come down (which is bad for the environment)
@jpdaigle Clearly too many factors play into however you received that quote...But, maybe this can help you...
Years ago, i researched insulating my home...an old home that was split into 2 living portions...and whose front half/portion was built in late 1800s, and back portion of home was built around late 1910s. So, you can imagine it was pretty much a sieve, just burning our money. So, i did get a few costly quotes...but the cheap husband in me wondered if i can do things piecemeal....and i assure you that its possible. There are lots of factors to consider....but you can research and determine for yourself.
Here is my suggestion:
1. Contact your electric company/provider...and ask them if they offer a free energy assessment. Ours did, and it helped us determine the exact zones/sections of our home where we had the worse heat loss. This assessment was so valuable, i wold have paid to have this done!
2. Research where you/your family spend the most time in the home. My opinion is that the bedrooms should be the last places to insulate, since blankets (and bodies) help keep things warm in this type of room.
3. Consider which areas of the home can be insulated via easier methods - like spray foamy stuff - which may only need little holes and not necessary to tear down full walls, etc. Some of these foams are not as insulating as traditional options, but the ease and cost is more than enough to justify things.
4. Ideally start on the outside walls of the home, and of the specific rooms/area where you will focus your first work.
There is so much more on thios topic...but keeping the work low in scope, and iterative really can help...its all about being clever here. Good luck!!
Numbers don't look great but you would need to consider the following too.
Any cooling cost you have that will also benefit from insulation and the fact that within 10years time you most likely need to upgrade the gas heater with something non fossil.
Also it is questionable if gas prices will remain where they are currently.
You could prioritize insulating some areas instead of all of them. Attic is the most effective and easy to do since it is usually open. Walls are less effective but expensive to drill holes or open up walls. Floors or basement are least effective but easy.
That is what I did, insulating the attic but not getting around to the walls and basement.
Construction is incredibly expensive. Why that is complicated. In a lot of the ways the problems though is our lack of newer affordable homes. Newer homes tend to cost more and have all the tech. Older homes are cheaper but paying someone else to upgrade them is crazy expensive.
It's all fine and dandy until it's +40 outside for a week, you can't insulate your body against that.
I'd bet insulating your home (at construction time) for the same effect is also cheaper over a lifetime of a house than warm clothes for all the inhabitants.
Lastly, the pleasure of going near naked at home is worth every penny.
Depending on the assumptions: the cost of heating has amounted to several-to-many salaries for some - even for white collars of industrialized countries in recent times.
I wear silk thermal underwear around the house, under normal clothes. I keep the thermostat at 55 degrees Fahrenheit (12.75 C) except for the first two hours after I wake up. And I live in a very cold climate.
EDIT: I have no mold, but I live in a very dry environment — high altitude, mountainous. Lots of snow but very dry air. Today it was 10 F (-12 C), but that is not typical. We are in a cold spell. I am nowhere near the sea, like Denmark, as mentioned in other comments.
Try this. You can do it. As another commenter wrote, get gloves with the fingertips cut out.
That is 13 degrees Celsius, that's pretty cold. Currently, due to the war in Ukraine and a reliance on Russian gas many Danish companies and government offices have been turning down the heat to 19 or 20 degrees Celsius. This has come with warning from engineers to not go much lower. In cold and wet climates, dropping below 19 degrees during the winter will damage building and allow mold to grow.
I can see 13 degrees not doing much harm in places arctic perhaps, but it is something to be aware of.
If you are actually being serious, I would caution others from following your example. Houses usually require a certain indoor temperature to prevent problems from moisture buildup in the structure (walls etc).
Have you had moisture problems in your house/apartment? The advice I see cautions against letting insulated spaces drop below 18 degrees C or so (around 65 F) as you’ll start to have issues with moisture buildup.
every time I've tried gloves with no fingertips it just feels like the finger holes are restricting the blood going to my fingertips. I feel like my fingers get colder than they would if I just didn't wear gloves
I do feel that personal-climate-control clothing has potential in our future world of more climate extremes. Some kind of backpack with a fluid pump, heater-cooler unit, and battery. Cooling/heating fluid gets pumped around a suit. Inductive charging via pads on the posterior, as long as your seat is part of the superchairger network.
I could see that happening for heat: hot water bags are amazing, and being able to "wear" one occasionally on the upper back (using some improvisation with an empty backpack to keep it in place) has been one of the few things I consider a benefit of WFH. But cooling? Sure, the technology is doable but won't you get a very huge mess with condensation?
First thing: the article does not advocate against heating your home as most comments here seem to suggest. Quote: "this article is not a plea to get rid of heating systems altogether [..] for many of us, a heating system remains a necessity".
Secondly I have experimented quite a lot this winter with clothing to reduce home heating requirements. I used to keep my home at 24C(74F) and wear short pants and short sleeves made of cotton. Now I keep the home at 20C(68F) during the day and 18C(64F) during the night. My heating bill is now half and I did notice I sleep a lot better at 18C then I used to at 24C.
I wear synthetic form fitting long pants and sleeves thermal base layer and a loose synthetic robe on top of those. The base layer keeps more heat but more importantly evacuates sweat a lot better than cotton. The robe is what keeps most of the heat trapping air inside being thick but also air between it and the base layer. You can find a lot of material on the internet about layering clothes and what each layer should do. One mistake I used to make and the article seems to think so as well is that the base layer's role is to keep heat.
I chose synthetic over wool for home because of the huge price difference and also the wear resistance. It's 10 euros vs 200 euros, I can wash it without care, I won't cry if they get stained with coffee, etc. I use merino wool when going out.
After these experiments I plan to get rid of most of my cotton clothes and replace them with synthetic and merino wool, even for the summer. I can't believe how I put up with the humidity trapping cotton for so long.
I am also interested to hear what other people experimented in this regard and their results.
If I need to dress differently indoors in winter than in summer, I'd consider my house defective. It might be energy efficient to dress a lot more in winter and keep the thermostat at 18 instead of 21 or 22 indoors, but I don't want to. 300mm outer wall insulation, expensive windows, and air heat recycling is something I'll happily invest in to NOT have to lower the thermostat.
My low-tech keep-warm solution this past winter was the mighty hot water bottle. It cost $5 from some knick-knack store and it does an excellent job of keeping my sheets warm until long after I've fallen asleep. It saved me from shelling out for an electric blanket.
Nitpick but statements like
“this is why we have resorted to clothing ever since we left our origins in Africa (where it was hot enough to survive without additional layers of clothing).”
really make me question the basic intelligence of the author.
I think the article doesn't explain the pumping coefficient correctly and so it gets into this rabbit hole about how long and tight clothing is better:
> Long underwear has more advantages over other clothing options. It does not hide your body shape and can maintain sex-appeal, a common concern for both men and women
If this is not your concern, consider that there is no problem with putting on loose clothes. It will work fine because the trapped air itself acts as an insulator. The pumping coefficient only materially significant for things like dresses.
There is not a single sustainable winter clothing manufacturer as far as I can tell. Rayon, hemp, and linen are sustainable but I have not found any warm clothing made of them. (Cotton requires a lot of water and organic cotton even more so because the yield is lower)
>The most significant factor influencing thermal comfort - even more important than air temperature and clothing - is human activity or body heat production (the metabolic rate). For instance, while it takes 12 clo-units to keep a resting person warm at an extremely low temperature of minus 40° C, this comes down to only 4 clo when this person is walking, and to only 1.25 clo when this person is running at 16 km/h. One of the most obvious reasons why our forefathers could bear lower indoor temperatures, was that they were more physically active than many of us.
To use that to one's advantage:
A little colder environment (e.g 18C/64F) than your comfort zone (e.g. 22C/72F) at normal humidity reminds you taking little breaks and be active during the day, it doesn't take much ("active recovery": 40-70% of your heart max; depending on your fitness status) and it goes a long way.
If you include the cognitive benefits/enhancement you get from deliberate short breaks instead of grinding hours away sitting in front of a screen, I struggle to really see a need to hack our biological design for a little colder environment. (sitting in a loose T and shorts outfit through trial and error I found out that I begin to feel noticeable uncomfortable at about 14-16C depending on my activity level throughout the day; I set my thermostat usually 1-2 degree above that (16C-18C) in accordance to the indoor humidity levels.)
Our bodies are extremely efficient [0] at regulating body temperature if one is cognizant of the instruction manual inherited through our evolution history.
Incorporating some High-Intensity/Resistance training gives an additional metabolic boost/afterburn which - no surprise here - synergistically couples itself with low-intensity/active recovery mode.
A bonus would be to expose yourself deliberately to extreme cold for a very short period of time (working your way slowly up). I personally don't go for numbers here but rather for the regular experience of real cold hitting your body and shifting some powerful gears (similar to an appreciation of "hunger" after a fast).
> This has resulted in a very diverse and fashionable line of lightweight clothes with high clo-values. A great deal of this progress is due to the use of new, synthetic materials
... which are endocrine disruptors turn produce microplastics. memo: plastics are bad.
Plastics are inert, with no sense of morality. They have many uses, many of which have negative externalities. Some negative externalities are worth it though because the alternative would be far worse.
Ultimately your existence is going to create externalities. Unless you're proposing to commit Hari Kiri what ever option you choose will create externalities. So at some point you're going to have to accept that you are leaving a mark on the world.
I personally believe a few grams of microplastics is acceptable in view of the tonnes of co2 not emitted.
I've been eyeing a normal electrically infra-red heating panel below my computer desk, I figured if it can warm my legs when I'm seated then that's enough comfort for me
[+] [-] bloopernova|3 years ago|reply
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kotatsu?wprov=sfla1
We use it in place of a coffee table and also use it as a dining table. My wife has trouble keeping warm, and she adores this table!
Only downside is that most kotatsu futon are designed for the traditional low table, so finding new covers/blankets is going to be difficult.
But I'm completely sold on the kotatsu concept. Highly recommended for toasty spouses!
Oh, and another cold spouse tip: Bedjet. It's like having your bed sheet made like a hot air balloon! A heater and fan pushes warm (or cold) air into the bag-like sheet. It works much, much faster than a heated blanket and doesn't have wires throughout the sheet that break. Again wins the cold spouse seal of approval.
[+] [-] mihaaly|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] wahern|3 years ago|reply
Most old homes in SF originally had (or at least were modified 100+ years ago to have) gravity fed heaters--no forced air, and no return registers in each room; just a single giant return register at a low point on a bottom floor. I've spoken with A/C contractors who say that there shouldn't be any serious problems rigging up a forced air system to the output registers, even without proper return registers. And plenty of homes do this. But I guess maybe the real problems come if you then being insulating the home--can the forced-air heating system circulate air quick enough without return registers to compensate for the fact the building no longer naturally ventilates? I imagine in most cases it works well enough, but you're still moderately more likely to see mold problems.
[1] To varying extents. My house was built in 1926, and it seems they used a relatively thin tar paper to wrap the house, or at least part of the house. (Unless that was somehow added much later, but I doubt it as the wall facing an adjacent house a few inches away is papered, and the siding is original on that wall.)
[+] [-] brnt|3 years ago|reply
It's short sighted imho. The extractor is precisely the right place to just move air out for all kinds of health reasons, maybe someone should work on one that recaptures some of the heat (that would also make sense!); I have not yet seen one.
[+] [-] bb123|3 years ago|reply
https://www.cse.org.uk/advice/advice-and-support/mechanical-...
[+] [-] hedora|3 years ago|reply
We've settled on always leaving one window slightly open if it is windy outside, or 2-3 on still days.
[+] [-] Jenda_|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] rambambram|3 years ago|reply
Also, don't forget to take a cup of warm tea now and then. Or do some pushups, jumping jacks and squats when feeling cold at home.
[+] [-] interactivecode|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] Nitrolo|3 years ago|reply
I don't need anything fancy but the higher range stuff (Helly Hansen, Arcteryx, Patagonia, etc.) is easily triple that.
[+] [-] pard68|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] profstasiak|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] mrgoldenbrown|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] acyou|3 years ago|reply
Cold climates: same idea with an integrated block heater. Now we can sit in your basements in our t shirts and boxers.
Later, our glucose vitamin pumps keep our blood sugar at ideal levels as our digestive tracts atrophy and eventually becomes vestiges.
With relief, we can literally feel the heat and sugar spreading from our centers out towards our extremities as we drop in and power on our headsets...
Much later, we introduce blood oxygenator units to get rid of those troublesome respiratory issues.
Now and in the future, science fiction, pitch deck, and existing tech become blurred together.
[+] [-] green-salt|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] unknown|3 years ago|reply
[deleted]
[+] [-] jpdaigle|3 years ago|reply
If the insulation cuts heating cost in half, that's a 1250$ savings per year, meaning a 48 year break even time assuming zero discount rate. It absolutely doesn't make sense to do the work unless there's a massive tax subsidy or contractor costs come down (which is bad for the environment)
[+] [-] mxuribe|3 years ago|reply
Years ago, i researched insulating my home...an old home that was split into 2 living portions...and whose front half/portion was built in late 1800s, and back portion of home was built around late 1910s. So, you can imagine it was pretty much a sieve, just burning our money. So, i did get a few costly quotes...but the cheap husband in me wondered if i can do things piecemeal....and i assure you that its possible. There are lots of factors to consider....but you can research and determine for yourself.
Here is my suggestion:
1. Contact your electric company/provider...and ask them if they offer a free energy assessment. Ours did, and it helped us determine the exact zones/sections of our home where we had the worse heat loss. This assessment was so valuable, i wold have paid to have this done!
2. Research where you/your family spend the most time in the home. My opinion is that the bedrooms should be the last places to insulate, since blankets (and bodies) help keep things warm in this type of room.
3. Consider which areas of the home can be insulated via easier methods - like spray foamy stuff - which may only need little holes and not necessary to tear down full walls, etc. Some of these foams are not as insulating as traditional options, but the ease and cost is more than enough to justify things.
4. Ideally start on the outside walls of the home, and of the specific rooms/area where you will focus your first work.
There is so much more on thios topic...but keeping the work low in scope, and iterative really can help...its all about being clever here. Good luck!!
[+] [-] seb1204|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] ianburrell|3 years ago|reply
That is what I did, insulating the attic but not getting around to the walls and basement.
[+] [-] anon23anon|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] jojobas|3 years ago|reply
I'd bet insulating your home (at construction time) for the same effect is also cheaper over a lifetime of a house than warm clothes for all the inhabitants.
Lastly, the pleasure of going near naked at home is worth every penny.
[+] [-] mdp2021|3 years ago|reply
Depending on the assumptions: the cost of heating has amounted to several-to-many salaries for some - even for white collars of industrialized countries in recent times.
[+] [-] TedDoesntTalk|3 years ago|reply
EDIT: I have no mold, but I live in a very dry environment — high altitude, mountainous. Lots of snow but very dry air. Today it was 10 F (-12 C), but that is not typical. We are in a cold spell. I am nowhere near the sea, like Denmark, as mentioned in other comments.
Try this. You can do it. As another commenter wrote, get gloves with the fingertips cut out.
[+] [-] mrweasel|3 years ago|reply
I can see 13 degrees not doing much harm in places arctic perhaps, but it is something to be aware of.
[+] [-] venv|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] rebuilder|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] culi|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] jl6|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] throw0101c|3 years ago|reply
So we're all going to become Fremen, wearing stillsuits?
[+] [-] lm28469|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] krisoft|3 years ago|reply
Like Adam Savage’s cooling suit: https://youtu.be/z_Ti4GP0ntE
[+] [-] dogma1138|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] usrusr|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] t344344|3 years ago|reply
Much easier is to have plumbing in suit, and just plugin to heat exchanger pump on every location.
[+] [-] bitwise101|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] antupis|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] wodenokoto|3 years ago|reply
I want to walk around in boxers and a T-shirt when at home.
[+] [-] trabant00|3 years ago|reply
Secondly I have experimented quite a lot this winter with clothing to reduce home heating requirements. I used to keep my home at 24C(74F) and wear short pants and short sleeves made of cotton. Now I keep the home at 20C(68F) during the day and 18C(64F) during the night. My heating bill is now half and I did notice I sleep a lot better at 18C then I used to at 24C.
I wear synthetic form fitting long pants and sleeves thermal base layer and a loose synthetic robe on top of those. The base layer keeps more heat but more importantly evacuates sweat a lot better than cotton. The robe is what keeps most of the heat trapping air inside being thick but also air between it and the base layer. You can find a lot of material on the internet about layering clothes and what each layer should do. One mistake I used to make and the article seems to think so as well is that the base layer's role is to keep heat.
I chose synthetic over wool for home because of the huge price difference and also the wear resistance. It's 10 euros vs 200 euros, I can wash it without care, I won't cry if they get stained with coffee, etc. I use merino wool when going out.
After these experiments I plan to get rid of most of my cotton clothes and replace them with synthetic and merino wool, even for the summer. I can't believe how I put up with the humidity trapping cotton for so long.
I am also interested to hear what other people experimented in this regard and their results.
[+] [-] alkonaut|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] Magi604|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] tdubhro1|3 years ago|reply
really make me question the basic intelligence of the author.
[+] [-] a1371|3 years ago|reply
> Long underwear has more advantages over other clothing options. It does not hide your body shape and can maintain sex-appeal, a common concern for both men and women
If this is not your concern, consider that there is no problem with putting on loose clothes. It will work fine because the trapped air itself acts as an insulator. The pumping coefficient only materially significant for things like dresses.
[+] [-] drewm1980|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] dav_Oz|3 years ago|reply
To use that to one's advantage:
A little colder environment (e.g 18C/64F) than your comfort zone (e.g. 22C/72F) at normal humidity reminds you taking little breaks and be active during the day, it doesn't take much ("active recovery": 40-70% of your heart max; depending on your fitness status) and it goes a long way.
If you include the cognitive benefits/enhancement you get from deliberate short breaks instead of grinding hours away sitting in front of a screen, I struggle to really see a need to hack our biological design for a little colder environment. (sitting in a loose T and shorts outfit through trial and error I found out that I begin to feel noticeable uncomfortable at about 14-16C depending on my activity level throughout the day; I set my thermostat usually 1-2 degree above that (16C-18C) in accordance to the indoor humidity levels.)
Our bodies are extremely efficient [0] at regulating body temperature if one is cognizant of the instruction manual inherited through our evolution history.
Incorporating some High-Intensity/Resistance training gives an additional metabolic boost/afterburn which - no surprise here - synergistically couples itself with low-intensity/active recovery mode.
A bonus would be to expose yourself deliberately to extreme cold for a very short period of time (working your way slowly up). I personally don't go for numbers here but rather for the regular experience of real cold hitting your body and shifting some powerful gears (similar to an appreciation of "hunger" after a fast).
[0]https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brown_adipose_tissue#Functio...
[+] [-] berjin|3 years ago|reply
... which are endocrine disruptors turn produce microplastics. memo: plastics are bad.
[+] [-] sebmellen|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] benj111|3 years ago|reply
Ultimately your existence is going to create externalities. Unless you're proposing to commit Hari Kiri what ever option you choose will create externalities. So at some point you're going to have to accept that you are leaving a mark on the world.
I personally believe a few grams of microplastics is acceptable in view of the tonnes of co2 not emitted.
[+] [-] NovaPenguin|3 years ago|reply
[+] [-] alliao|3 years ago|reply