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zakary | 2 years ago

My understanding is it has definitely been solved by the use of much thicker gloves or gloves with heating elements. But doing difficult technical climbing at very high altitudes also requires good dexterity and you are often up there for many days. Also lithium batteries don’t work much at all in temperatures that cold.

I could imagine some kind of warm water tube system that takes heat from a heat exchanger on your chest and transports it to your hands and feet, and is pumped by the action of walking. Not sure if that’s been tried before.

There’s a lot of great engineers who’ve done a lot of climbing so my guess is pretty anything that works sufficiently well to keep hands and feet warm, is also too complex, expensive or bulky to be useful in really extreme mountaineering environments.

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bdamm|2 years ago

Yeah, powered by a pump near your chest, with heat pushed out from the center using liquid, and then distributed everywhere it is needed using smaller and smaller tubes that get close to the surface of the skin before returning. And why not use this same liquid to provide extra oxygen. Love it!

The last time I was on the periphery of mountaineering, performance enhancing drugs were commonplace. A breakthrough in performance enhancing drugs should yield new results in mountaineering.

devnullbrain|2 years ago

What kind of PEDs?

snowwrestler|2 years ago

The critical factor is weight. Electric heated gloves only work if they have power. Batteries are heavy.

Water and fuel are also heavy, which means climbers on big routes like this are usually riding the edge of starvation and dehydration for days, which further raises the risk of frostbite in extremities.

Fricken|2 years ago

There is a lot of stop and go. In the kind of conditions they were in. It's hard not to break a sweat when climbing, and hard to avoid early stage hypothermia when belaying. When the core cools down, blood flow to the extremities is restricted to conserve heat, putting them at risk of frostbite.

jmye|2 years ago

> I could imagine some kind of warm water tube system that takes heat from a heat exchanger on your chest and transports it to your hands and feet, and is pumped by the action of walking. Not sure if that’s been tried before.

I feel like you just re-invented the circulatory system. I don’t mean that to be snarky at all, just that I think part of the problem with your hands is that your body starts sending them less blood to keep your core warm. I’d think that pumping more heat away from your core would be bad for survival.

But my climbing is also not on vertical rock at 25k+ feet!

eternityforest|2 years ago

They must have some way to keep gear warm or they wouldn't be able to drink water, right? Can't you just put the batteries in a vacuum insulated can?

Vacuum flasks are such an amazing invention. They really seem to work exactly like you would want.

Crunchified|2 years ago

Lithiums don't work in cold temperatures? That's a new one on me. Many lithium battery formulations work in colder conditions than other common formulations. I don't read the NYT so didn't read the article, but were they climbing in temperatures well below -40° with exposed batteries? I know that lithiums are commonly used in balloon payloads that can get mighty cold!

lstodd|2 years ago

Eww, people of warm climates...

You try making a few calls in -15C 5 m/s wind (typical 55 latitude continental climate weather in winter), then see the charge bar plummeting to zero when you attempt to call up a taxi so that you don't freeze to death.

About only thing you can do at that point is shove the phone into your panties to heat it back up and then hope what's left of the charge is enough and it doesn't refreeze while you're at it.

No, lithiums don't work much below 0C. Balloon payloads use insulation and heaters, but that obviously eats into energy available.

dilyevsky|2 years ago

I had a phone go completely off on multiple occasions doing winter runs in tahoe and it wasn't even that cold (like mid-20s but with wind) so it's not so simple. And yes nearly 8000m peak it's common to have -40° temps