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Rolex fined $100M for preventing its watches being sold online

226 points| sparkling | 2 years ago |usa.watchpro.com

263 comments

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nyjah|2 years ago

If you haven't heard of The Time Piece Gentlemen, aka Anthony Farer, it's my favorite recent ponzi scheme as he documented the entire thing online.

Because of the scarcity of Rolex's there are 'Grey Market' dealers. And one of those dealers just went to jail on $5million worth of fraud, basically stealing consigned watches.

What's fascinating about the story is that during Covid the prices of the watches 10x'd for some of them so they were going for insane prices. And this guy vlogged the entire thing all the way up to his bust last month. It's a great way to see and learn about these expensive watches, and knowing the whole thing is bullshit is *chefskiss*

https://tv.watchscammer.com

https://www.youtube.com/@skerriesrockart

https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/anthony-farrer-...

https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2023-11-08/spending...

sunpazed|2 years ago

Rolex are the De Beers of the mechanical watch world. Scarcity and exclusivity is a great way to market luxury. A Rolex Submariner in the 80s was about $1,000 — these days it’s closer to $12,000. A new Daytona is twice that. While they were never cheap, they were affordable for a working professional.

throw0101b|2 years ago

> Rolex are the De Beers of the mechanical watch world.

Except that Rolex doesn't have a monopoly on the watch market. Plenty of other 'fancy' watch brands you can buy (Patek Philippe, Omega, A. Lange & Söhne, etc).

Besides the 'financial' aspect of high-end watches, one can enjoy the different aesthetics different brands have, and the mechanical intricacy of various complicaitons like (e.g.) tourbillons.

aredox|2 years ago

A decade ago, a Rolex wasn't much cheaper but it was in effect "free", as it was the only watch you could resale at the same price you bought it, even used and scratched. It wasn't an investment (and you didn't need to put it in a safe), but it wasn't a waste of money either.

(The same can't be said of the other luxury watch brands at all - like cars, they lose at least half their value the second you get them.)

Nowadays I don't know, there seems to be more pump and dump.

the_black_hand|2 years ago

I think that's the whole point of luxury watches. No rolex owner is under the illusion that they are somehow intrinsically worth so much.

skhr0680|2 years ago

I don’t think it’s a coincidence that Rolex transformed into Veblen goods around the time Gshocks were invented

ksaj|2 years ago

Robb Report still considers them to be a beginner's watch, and treat the brand as only of interest to people who want to dip their toes into the higher end watch collecting waters.

Bayart|2 years ago

Rolex don't do artificial scarcity and hype campaigns around limited runs like other brands have taken to do. They're at max capacity and if you want to buy one you've just got to get on the list, no short cuts.

wdb|2 years ago

Rolex aren't the best watches but they keep value pretty well for a bunch of models. Some of the grey market prices they charge are pretty ridiculous even wit h prices going down.

Personally I prefer to spend the same amount of money on a nice Lange* than a Rolex. I think the only place where you can get a Rolex is in an airport store.

*=you might still have to wait for your watch to get made.

MuffinFlavored|2 years ago

Inflation Calculator

If in 1980 I purchased an item for $1,000.00 then in 2023 that same item would cost: $3,726.35

Cumulative rate of inflation: 272.6%

ipqk|2 years ago

They've only become scarce in the last 4-5 years, before that you could pretty much get what you wanted minus a couple highly sought-after models.

paulpauper|2 years ago

but there are many suppliers of luxury watches

artursapek|2 years ago

Yeah, it's a tacky status symbol. What's the problem?

hayksaakian|2 years ago

For those who skipped to the comments: They tried to prevent retailers from selling products first purchased from Rolex, and then sold online. "preventing its authorized dealers selling new watches online."

First paragraph of the article

fbdab103|2 years ago

In America, there is the First Sale Doctrine, which mostly(?) lets me do whatever I want with a product in my possession.

What is preventing some nobody from going to these authorized dealers (presumably with no-online-sales agreements), buying up their entire inventory, and then personally offering that online? Just the threat of fakes?

TrackerFF|2 years ago

I have a couple of colleagues that collect watches - and one of them brought in a high-end replica, think he paid around $500 or so for it, and compared it to the real deal - which he also had. Some kind of Rolex submariner, don't remember what exact model.

To me, they looked identical. Felt identical. If you mixed them up and asked me which one was which, I'd be completely lost. He then pointed me to some youtube vids of people dissecting them, and it seems like you really have to bring out the microscope to tell.

I don't know much about watches, but I'm just thinking that if they are getting so accurate...why would regular people shell out 5 figures for a real one, when you can get those for a couple of hundred bucks?

Don't get me wrong - I like artisanry, but at this point it seems like you're paying the biggest upcharge for name, and nothing much else.

(As for why my colleague bought replicas, apparently he'd wear those while traveling, in case he got robbed or whatever. Even though insurance would cover the original watch, just getting a legit one from stores/dealers has been a huge hassle. Months of wait time, etc.)

krisoft|2 years ago

> why would regular people shell out 5 figures for a real one

I assure you that “regular” people don’t shell out 5 figures for any watch.

> you're paying the biggest upcharge for name, and nothing much else

Of course.

dkjaudyeqooe|2 years ago

The point of luxury goods is exclusivity - I've got a real one because I can afford it and you can't, it doesn't matter that it looks the same or even is the same, it not real it's not expensive.

Luxury goods turn economics on its head, the whole point is to overpay for a good which has little in the way of marginal return, to illustrate your wealth and "status".

I'd just call it idiocy or at least pretentiousness, and their counter argument would be that I'm "envious".

phamilton|2 years ago

Did he have some way to keep them straight? Seems like a recipe for forgetting which one is real and which one is fake.

thsksbd|2 years ago

"you're paying the biggest upcharge for name, and nothing much else."

You're also paying for the design and R&D. And the capability to have the Swiss continue to be able to make watches. The ability of your country to continue making something, even if it doesn't make economic sense is undervalued.

zht|2 years ago

Personally the idea of wearing a fake Rolex for travelling is insane to me.

You’re just as much as a target for physical violence. Sure, you don’t lose as much financially if your watch is taken, but you’re just painting a massive target on your back.

For what, to be seen as wealthy when travelling? To flex your status?

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-12881935/amp/Gang-m...

This man was stabbed to death for his fake Patek Philippe watch.

Absolutely senseless

iaw|2 years ago

There are a couple non-superficial distinctions in terms of metallurgy and certain materials but by and large not that much.

quickthrower2|2 years ago

Rolex will need it's watches to phone home then, so they can remote-brick a watch that was sold online. Cough.. Sorry... did I say brick? I mean end the free included SaaS subscription.

makeitdouble|2 years ago

> Rolex’s competitors have not used the same tactics despite facing similar risks.

It's interesting that competitors can be used in such a case as a benchmark of what is a legitimate strategy. Which makes it all the worse when they collude or fix a market.

neighbour|2 years ago

I own a couple of Rolexes, neither were purchased from an AD simply because I live in a place that has no ADs and I'm not travelling hours to play the AD waitlist game.

I say this is a good move. You should be able to sell them online. The second-hand dealers do it and it works fine.

This also doesn't really affect the exclusivity of the product either. The ADs still get to control supply and will still probably not sell to people unless they know them (which sucks).

whycome|2 years ago

I had to look up AD (authorized dealer). Is it just a watch-world thing to not write it out in full? I’ve only seen it with other tech products and it’s usually written out.

tsunamifury|2 years ago

Rolex, LVMH, Ferrari, and those who try to falsely limit distribution are the path forward for luxury. It’s clear that main stream culture eats up a canvas bag with no defining quality features or a machine made watch that can be copied for 200$ nearly perfectly as long as they feel it’s exclusive.

It’s a bit of a bummer because several other brands have tried to sell on actual quality struggle. Artificial scarcity is just too strong a draw.

wdb|2 years ago

Never experienced issues getting anything from LVMH. What's scarce there? If you message your sales person they will have it next time you visit the store.

Sohcahtoa82|2 years ago

It's frustrating tbh.

I'm very interested in the Corvette EV due in 2025. But knowing how much Chevy limits production of the Corvette Z06, I imagine they'll put similar road blocks in front of the EV.

Like, why don't they want my $150K+?

helij|2 years ago

Rolex is seriously overpriced. Not sure why people are so excited about them. Grand Seiko for example has better movements, better Q&A[0]. Is name really worth that much?

[0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKrJOMaFuyA

sonicanatidae|2 years ago

To some people, the name is the only part they purchased. The workings could be made of gummy bears and they'd be fine because it's a ROLEX.

paulpauper|2 years ago

Are people still impressed by Rolexes? This is not the 90s or 80s anymore when dropping $10k on a watch was a big move. Things have really exploded post-Covid with influencer culture and wealth appearing seemingly ex nihilo. These nobody, no-name kids seem to have so much money, even.

metaphor|2 years ago

> This is not the 90s or 80s anymore when dropping $10k on a watch was a big move.

To be fair, you're disconnected from economic reality if you think dropping $10k on a watch today isn't a big financial move.

nalekberov|2 years ago

Well, distribution of wealth is still more or less the same; the gap is even wider and wider now.

Additionally, money can only move one just a little bit higher in social hierarchy. Those influencers influence young minds to consume more and more stuff, get money from the brands they are advertising, spend on expensive things - which are produced and sold by rich people. Direction of flow is always the same, rich gets richer, poor stays poor, so called "no-name kids" continue driving people to consume (mostly) useless things.

jurassic|2 years ago

I don't know about Rolexes specifically, but there is definitely a male subculture of people obsessed with watches who will be impressed by somebody sporting the right bling. I'm not into it, but I can see why many people are given they roll art, engineering, collecting, and conspicuous display of power/wealth all into one.

argiopetech|2 years ago

"Seem to have" is relevant. There's an entire industry focused around renting you a mansion in the hills, Ferrari, Rolex, chain, cameras and lighting equipment... For 4 hours so you can do your Insta shoot and head back to your normal life.

Also, anybody can get a credit card and build a credit limit relatively quickly that will buy (though not pay for) multiple Rolexes.

Andrex|2 years ago

It all depends on who you're trying to appeal to. There's a big segment of the (male) population that's really, really into watches. Kevin Rose famously got distracted by the vertical for a good few years (I think it was "Hodinkee?" or something equally unserious.)

yieldcrv|2 years ago

they are, rolexes are engineered well and most recognizable.

there is more niche affinity to certain brands and aesthetics that are seen as far more coveted than rolex, from the people that matter. as in, there are absolutely some circles of people that will lend you respect for the curated taste and often have access to resources reserved for people that prove it with these material things, whereas rolex will be a neutral to negative signal.

no different than wearing a suit in a professional setting, to one thats fitted, or cufflinks, there are just levels to it that continue with accessories.

aside from that, one benefit is that thieves typically don't recognize other brands. they recognize rolexes and a couple others though.

kshahkshah|2 years ago

Think it is having the opposite effect you’re assuming. You might have just gotten older…

roflchoppa|2 years ago

I’m impressed with the engineering. But not so much as a “flaunt it” item.

the_black_hand|2 years ago

Why on earth would a Rolex AD want to sell watches online? The regular pieces e.g Submariners are out of stock 99% of the time, and once stock comes in there's waitlist with 500 people. For the more expensive ones that are in stock, I doubt many clients (outside of scalpers) would be purchasing those sight unseen. Doesn't make much sense to me. It bad for ADs and customers, really only benefits scalpers.

zht|2 years ago

It wasn’t always the case. And it won’t always be the case in the future

The AD in question lost their status in 2013, way before Rolex mania came about and no one could buy a sub anymore.

And given the recent downswing in Rolex prices on secondary markets and the drop in wait time of the hyped watches, it’s quite plausible that soon some models will sit for long periods of time

veblengoods101|2 years ago

One thing is clear, don't post about horology or mechanical timepieces here. There's a vocal demographic in HN that does not appreciate them.

ryanSrich|2 years ago

This is why I've always liked Omega. Not as high status as Rolex, but a luxury watch nonetheless, and one you can easily purchase direct online.

Loughla|2 years ago

I've had a mechanical Timex camper for years. Legitimately, I think I've had it for 25 years. It has never lost time that I can tell. It was $75?

Watches are fascinating to me, because the high status watches are so gaudy and HUGE.

dboreham|2 years ago

Sometimes even from Costco.

mc32|2 years ago

I dont see a problem with it. Moreover it improves their employment numbers, lest these clerks go unemployed and “automated” out of a job.

It’s a luxury item, who cares?

They could require a two year advance appointment and visit to HQ before buying, for all I care.

They should put their nose in Amazon’s business of commingling and allowing fakes and swapping products on reviews and that bullshit that does affect the Joels et Maries.

bongodongobob|2 years ago

I think the catch is it's not Rolex that isn't selling the watches online, it's preventing affiliated dealers from doing it. They are controlling other people's business interests. I can see both sides on this one. Rolex feels like it could devalue the brand exclusivity and the dealers feel that it impedes them from doing legal business.

I'm not sure how I feel about this one.

I_Am_Nous|2 years ago

There was (is?) a huge problem with Rolex watches being listed online for scalping prices by authorized dealers so that they would be sold before they were ever even really in the store. It was really hard to just buy a Rolex officially.

djoletina|2 years ago

I agree, the bottom line should be: they should be able to make this decision.

LanceH|2 years ago

After extensive judicial proceedings it was found that Rolex wasn't French.

jmyeet|2 years ago

This is a silly decision and should be overturned on appeal. Who knows if it will be.

Manufacturers place conditions on how their products are sold, at what price and to whom. "No online sales" is no different to requiring an authorized retailer to sell something at MSRP or no more than 1 or 2 or 3 per customer or only to local residents.

dkjaudyeqooe|2 years ago

> requiring an authorized retailer to sell something at MSRP

That's also illegal in most jurisdictions. It's called "restraint of trade" and it's illegal because it interferes with the normal functioning of a free market and disadvantages consumers.

crazygringo|2 years ago

Exactly -- this is no different from lots of other restrictions manufacturers already put in place.

I'm baffled by this, and what law or legal principle they are attempting to use, and why they would apply it here but not in the thousands of other situations.

iaw|2 years ago

I had a watch streak.

I really like Seiko mechanicals when I need a watch.

If I had infinite money I'd get an Omega and then a used F.P. Journe with tourbillon (I found one in Tokyo that was comparable in price to a Rolex).

Rolex is the Gucci of watches, every one knows the name but very few people get them because they authentically like the brand (in my opinion)

luxuryballs|2 years ago

It’s kinda crazy if they can cite you for not selling your product on a platform that didn’t even exist 100 years ago. I bet the reasoning is going to be very rich and well articulated.

CrazyStat|2 years ago

They’re not being cited for not selling on the internet. They’re being cited for forbidding other people from selling on the internet.

causality0|2 years ago

Seems ass-backwards to me. Enforcing a specific type of sales experience is much more reasonable than forcing prices.

dsgnr|2 years ago

[deleted]

pulse7|2 years ago

[deleted]

axlee|2 years ago

The gotcha is that these stores aren't theirs.

Rolex is very happy to use retailers to sell their watches, they're just not happy with retailers having the freedom to sell their watches as they deem appropriate.

It's basically retailer freedom to sell as they wish vs Rolex's freedom to prevent the retailer selling as it wishes, and I tend instinctively to support the little guy in these fights.

makeitdouble|2 years ago

At the other end of it there's franchises and dealer networks.

It can't be black and white and companies having no power to do so whatever the circumstances or contract.

ForHackernews|2 years ago

First sale doctrine presumably applies? If the retailers have purchased stock from a manufacturer, then they own it and they can do whatever the heck they want with it.

I think we should be extremely sceptical of any definition of "freedom" that prioritizes the ability of big, wealthy companies to restrict the actions of smaller firms and individuals.

rmbyrro|2 years ago

It's worse, they're forced to sell in a channel they don't want

aksss|2 years ago

I think it’s less about forcing Rolex to sell online, and more about forbidding them from preventing their partners from selling online, if I’m reading it correctly. Rolex can sell only in B&M (if they wanted to sell direct) but they can’t make that business model a condition of their partnership program.

There are probably ways to make it very onerous for partners to sell online though.

bongodongobob|2 years ago

Did you read the article? It's not Rolex, it's the affiliates. Rolex isn't being forced to sell online, they are preventing dealers from doing it.

mensetmanusman|2 years ago

That's so weird.

"you must sell online!!!!"

poundtown|2 years ago

dont be a rolex dealer then..pound sand..they should be able to control their brands exclusivity.

throwme_123|2 years ago

That's a legitimately good use case for NFTs.

When you sell valuable physical objects that have a high risk of counterfeiting, the secure way is to associate a "digital twin" of the object that has verifiable provenance and this is exactly what NFTs as a technology are good at.

edit: Thanks to everyone that downvoted this to -4 despite the numerous good remarks in comment that spark a solely technical discussion on the topic. Please come over your hate.

treyd|2 years ago

You don't need NFTs to do this though, you can just use signed commitments stored in some public log.

jandrese|2 years ago

This would only work if the NFT was signed by a key kept on the real watch in a Secure Enclave of some kind, but then you don’t need the blockchain, just a database maintained by Rolex. The blockchain doesn’t buy you anything here.

ToucanLoucan|2 years ago

We already solved this problem decades ago with certificates of authenticity and standard record-keeping, which if I understand correctly, Rolex (and a number of other high-end watch companies) already employs.

ska|2 years ago

> the secure way is to associate a "digital twin"

Not really, that just punts the problem to another area. This problem has been about as solved as it's going to get ages before the idea of crypto. NFT's don't actually add much other than a different layer and one technique of digital record keeping.

colineartheta|2 years ago

How does having a “digital twin” of the physical object prevent the object from being counterfeited?

Coffeewine|2 years ago

Wouldn’t that make it easier to make fakes, if everyone could trivially look up what the serial number and features were supposed to be?

notfed|2 years ago

Yeah because blockchain and NFTs totally solve the problem of Internet fraud.

rmbyrro|2 years ago

And what prevents them from faking the association to the digital token?

kadoban|2 years ago

What would stop someone from selling the digital twin to scammers to make better fakes, and just keeping the watch?