top | item 40051511 (no title) humbleferret | 1 year ago Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life — William Finnegan — (2015) discuss order hn newest gnatman|1 year ago Fantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing? humbleferret|1 year ago It really is.My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.
gnatman|1 year ago Fantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing? humbleferret|1 year ago It really is.My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.
humbleferret|1 year ago It really is.My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.
gnatman|1 year ago
humbleferret|1 year ago
My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.