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flimsypremise | 1 year ago
Just for instance, the LS-2000 features in the post has an advertised optical resolution of 2700DPI, which means the absolute maximum megapixel resolution you can get out of that thing is a little over 10MP. Film scanners are notorious for overstating their optical resolution, which has nothing to do with the resolution of sensor used to digitize the image data and everything to do with the lens in the scanner. You can have a 200MP sensor scanning your film but if your lens can only resolve 1000DPI you will have a very high resolution image of a low resolution lens projection. It's maybe a little better than a flatbed and it features dust removal, but in the year of our lord 2024 the LS-2000 is not a good choice for scanning film.
As for his macro scanning setup, he appears to be using the digitaliza for film holding, which is a notoriously bad product with many known flaws. Negative supply makes a line of lower cost version of their very good film holders, and Valoi also offers an affordable system of components that I highly recommend. There is a ton of good information out there about macro scanning, and had the OP sought it out he could avoided his little adventure in retro computing.
enthdegree|1 year ago
Modern equipment has similar warts. Flatbed scanners are bad film imagers for a number of reasons, a few which you already wrote. There's a huge volume of new products coming out for scanning right now (film holders, copy stands, light panels, etc) but these setups are very inconvenient to set up or, to be charitable, demand practice and perfect technique. There's always people ready to insist they have an easy convenient time setting up their SLR scanners and capturing 1000 rolls at 9999 DPI in 2 minutes. I don't share their experience.
During the pandemic I tried to proof-of-concept a path forward without any real success:
- The first attempt involved modifying a Plustek scanner to take medium format. This ended up taking a ton of work for each medium format frame (4 captures for each of the 4 quadrants, and each of those is already slow for a single 35mm frame). Stitching these captures is tedious and flaky for images that don't have obvious sharp features.
- The other involved rigging the objective of a Minolta Dimage Scan Elite II on a Raspberry Pi HQ camera onto an Ender printhead to raster over the film with a light table. This could have worked but it had many mechanical problems I am not cut out to solve (lens mount, camera-to-film-plane alignment)
Leaving aside designing a proper optical path there are 2 killer problems:
- the problem of mechanically manipulating the negative and keeping it in focus
- the problem of stitching together partial captures with minimal human intervention
A few people seem to be working on open source backlit line-scanners but as far as I know no central path forward has emerged. I hope someone figures it out.
sdflhasjd|1 year ago
That being said, this was a one-off, but once I had enough overlap with each capture, PTGui was able to switch it together relatively hands-free, even with it having lots of sky.
DidYaWipe|1 year ago
I sold it on eBay years ago, then researched what might be better. The general opinion was that consumer-accessible scanning peaked with the Minolta Dimage Elite 5400 II. Of course these were long out of manufacture, but I managed to find one new in the box on a small auction site. To this day I haven't gotten around to scanning a single piece of film with it. Maybe this post will finally get me off my ass...
jnovek|1 year ago
dav43|1 year ago
qingcharles|1 year ago
https://epson.com/For-Work/Scanners/Photo-and-Graphics/Epson...
It has a white panel on the inside of the lid which ruins a lot of scans. I always put black card on top of my scans.
That's probably the best scanner for photos. And I used to own a $25K Hasselblad too.
Make sure you clean the platten and the photos before scanning to save hassle later on dust removal.
I used those Epsons for scanning tens of thousands of old photos.
Start with a good scan, and there is so much good post-processing software out there now to help correct fading etc on old images.
jeffbee|1 year ago
pathartl|1 year ago
10729287|1 year ago
david38|1 year ago
I now use a system from Negative Supply.