Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
I built a wireless, split, ultra-low profile keyboard from scratch called Bayleaf. As a beginner I learned all things electronics, PCB-building, designing for manufacturing, and many other hardware-related skills to put this together.
This case study dives into the build process and of course the final result, hope you enjoy!
jacobevelyn|1 year ago
robenkleene|1 year ago
nextos|1 year ago
In this regard, I found Microsoft Sculpt really good because it ticked all ergonomic boxes but it didn't require relearning. However, quality was a bit subpar, it didn't offer a wired option, and it has been discontinued. The entire lineup was actually sold to Incase, who are releasing it again soon.
roflchoppa|1 year ago
I’m sure the devils in the details.
unknown|1 year ago
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SJMG|1 year ago
seemaze|1 year ago
I picked up a Let's Split v2[0] when it came out years ago and never soldered it up.. maybe it's time!
[0]https://shop.beekeeb.com/product/lets-split-v2-keyboard-pcb-...
w10-1|1 year ago
Moving to the mouse and back is pain enough that people go all-in on keyboard-only interfaces.
I velcroed a trackpad to the middle of a Kinesis Advantage. Now I use either hand for the mouse, and even stretch a finger or thumb to the pad without leaving the keys. The movement is little different from using the keyboard.
But for split keyboard, you'd need one trackpad for each side, and in dimensions not readily available. hmm.
jazzabeanie|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
JeremyBarbosa|1 year ago
I have a ErgoDox EZ, and I still prefer using my Framework 13 (with Kanata![0]) because having my thumbs navigate the trackpad is so convenient even with a keyboard-driven setup.
[0] https://github.com/jtroo/kanata
mkl|1 year ago
danielvaughn|1 year ago
crazygringo|1 year ago
There's also a common misconception that it's ergonomic to angle a keyboard "upward" (elevating the back of the keyboard), when correct ergonomics is actually to angle the keyboard downwards (elevate the front).
See if you have a long object a little shorter than your foam cushion that you can scotch tape to the bottom of the front of a low-profile Apple keyboard, so that you still use the foam cushion but the front of the keyboard is at the same level as the cushion, and then angles downwards.
And then you get the advantages of the short key travel, which just means your fingers move less and so there's less force/strain.
You may find it shockingly comfortable!
apocalyptic0n3|1 year ago
If you compare it to the Apple Magic Keyboard I'm typing on now – and that seems like a definite inspiration for the Bayleaf – it's a stark contrast. The K3, for example, is more than twice as tall (10.9mm vs 22mm backrow). The Magic Keyboard feels fine to type on without any sort of wrist support and I never feel any strain. But on the K3, even with a support (tried both their wooden support and a similarly sized foam one), I would feel strain after an hour or two.
Most low-profiles are really just a middle ground between the two sides. And, at least in my experience, you get the downsides of both without any of the positives of either.
lsaferite|1 year ago
makeitdouble|1 year ago
I might be at the other extreme end, but even typing on glass doesn't bother me much, and laptop keyboards are a good compromise to have just enough travel and not too much.
I tried a nuphy low profile and it was tiring after a while. The thinkpad standalone trackpoint keyboard has been my go to for a while, and tgis keyboard also looks great to me.
bee_rider|1 year ago
I want this keyboard to put on a bookshelf and never use, haha. It is really nice looking. It sounds like it was an incredible learning experience and making something so polished and professional looking is a real accomplishment. But low profile, no pads, ortho layout, and no tenting… my eyes ache for the beauty of the thing but my hands just ache.
But anyway, ergonomics are personal so I can’t really judge.
LAC-Tech|1 year ago
__MatrixMan__|1 year ago
exitb|1 year ago
klauserc|1 year ago
Keyboards are such a good hobby project. The scope is comparatively small, yet within that scope you get in contact with many different and highly interesting subjects and challenges. And you can more or less pick and choose, which ones you engage with (wireless vs wired, soldering vs hand-wired, custom firmware vs. ZMK/QMK, split vs. traditional).
sandreas|1 year ago
Did you consider Mill-Max Sockets?
My personal favorite are 80% TKL ISO low profile keyboards, which is quite uncommon and I've not found much except the
having this layout. Unfortunately, the integrated Gateron brown/red/... low profile switches are not my thing - my favorite ones would be Lofree Kailh Ghost, but these don't fit the keyboard, although it is hot swappable because low profile switches are non standard (at least 2 different layouts I know of).So I also thought about a custom solution. I found pretty impressive open source firmware and pcbs [1], but I noticed that I just didn't have the time to do all this. Since keyboards are so an individual device, manufacturing bigger batches is risky and manufacturing smaller batches is expensive... so pretty much no choice than waiting for someone having the same dream as I have or do it myself after shoving free enough time.
1: https://github.com/4pplet/waffling80/issues/1
ValentinPearce|1 year ago
Take your time, the GAS is real and expensive !
All jokes aside, ordering small batches of PCBs is unfortunately very expensive, especially if you have a larger size.
If you ever feel the itch of going towards ergonomic split keyboards, you'll find plenty of ~40% splits that use reversible PCBs for both halves which allows for cheap batches. Typically you get 5 PCBs with JLC and that gives you enough to build one full keyboard for work and one for home.
UI_at_80x24|1 year ago
For other split-mechanical keyboards check out:
ZSA Voyager
Moergo Glove 80
cole-k|1 year ago
For keyboards really similar to OP's
The keyboard they were inspired by (not for sale... yet?): https://old.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1cfg3vr/...
Corneish (out of stock): https://lowprokb.ca/products/corne-ish-zen?variant=376943319... Unicorne: https://new.boardsource.xyz/products/unicorne-LP
The corneish is an absolute gem in my opinion. It is possibly (probably?) open-sourced too.
johncalvinyoung|1 year ago
tortilla|1 year ago
https://imgur.com/pklEZSh
Ambients Silent Choc Switches (20g Linear), keycaps from worklouder (Pure)
w10-1|1 year ago
szvsw|1 year ago
tquinn|1 year ago
K7PJP|1 year ago
Me, too. I feel there's a lot of us who want precisely this. I want every key that's on the Magic Keyboard. I already have a number of other Karabiner bindings, like the Hyper key, so I'm adding "layers" that way.
Executor|1 year ago
Questions: - Do you have nkey rollover? - Would you accept "optional" wires? Note: gaming requires fast response times. Hell even programming/writing sucks when there's key lag.
cbm-vic-20|1 year ago
In the nav layer. One popular layout of split keyboards is two 3x5 grids of keys with 3 thumb buttons. With this configuration, it is common to map modifier keys to the home row keys, activated when they are held down. Likewise, for numbers, symbols, navigation, a thumb key is held down to activate that layer. Your fingers never have to stretch more than one key-length away.
Miryoku is a popular implmentation of this. It looks crazy, but you can get used to it really quickly, or alter it to your own taste.
https://github.com/manna-harbour/miryoku
6SixTy|1 year ago
With 60% keyboards, you are often using modifier layers baked into the keyboards' firmware to get back your function keys and your control block like page up
striking|1 year ago
ZMK supports N-key rollover and layers.
LAC-Tech|1 year ago
If that's not appealing to you, there's probably no reason to get into it. If it is appealing to you to live mostly on your homerow, then the learning curve is not all that great, maybe a couple of months.
Etheryte|1 year ago
aredox|1 year ago
For something so thin, your soldering woes aren't surprising. The standard way to manage that would have been to solder everything in one go on a hot plate (reflow soldering).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QarizoUnRfk
sgraz|1 year ago
I think this method is also highly specific to these switches. They are known for being difficult to solder with hobby-tier equipment.
shellfishgene|1 year ago
ghostly_s|1 year ago
stronglikedan|1 year ago
one of the most satisfying things to watch
ushiocheng|1 year ago
Totally have been here done that. While my aesthetics are a bit different than yours, the core idea is very similar. I just imagined if Nuphy and Planck would have a twin and come up with this. I was on a budget so I basically said fuck it to the thickness and just kept the size small. Everything was FDM and I even had a 3d printable pcb-not-so-pcb if you can’t wait at all. This runs zmk for full wireless experience, uses an nrf controller and have a battery life of over a month. I even had custom keycap with stickers on it so I can lookup rarely used keys.
PS. The only cons or why I am not running this for everything is that you kind of need 2 hand to do certain things like pause the music or adjusting volume.
Photo: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZwvTO3jMyY0JBKoYrA88sJk-7SX...
aylmao|1 year ago
[1] https://gifer.com/es/BFCV
isaacaggrey|1 year ago
In hindsight, the biggest issue I ran into switching keyboards was that I was too ambitious playing around with the key configuration. The configurability is a big draw but I took for granted that I had already built up years of natural tendency for certain things - which thumb I use for space, preferences for Ctrl/Alt/Command/Option, for Shift, etc.
The default for these keyboards probably don't 100% align with what you're used to, so you should directly map what you're doing currently over to the keymap of the keyboard and then you can fiddle with making it yours over time.
I will say that if you're not already a touch typer, then a split keyboard is not going to help and it will be more difficult to get used to.
edit: also, if anything, going columnar helped me actually consistently hit number keys!
milch|1 year ago
Now I'm about a year and a half later and am up to 140wpm. I think the biggest problem for me on the standard keyboard is the bottom row index fingers and pinkies, the "natural" motion of my fingers lands right in between the two keys on those fingers so I used to make a lot of mistakes there, especially when typing fast.
squigz|1 year ago
They're worth it though!
LAC-Tech|1 year ago
ciberado|1 year ago
In my case, going from a regular keyboard to a split one like he Raise[1] took me 10 minutes of adaption time. My second split one was (is) a columnar (the Defy[2]), and I must confess that the adaption time was something like three days. Mostly because I kept failing to correctly push a few keys (like the C). Now I can indistinctly work with a columnar or a stagged one with zero problem. In fact, I usually use both types many days.
That said, I thought that the change would make me feel more comfortable, but to be honest in my case the difference is not big at all.
[1] https://dygma.com/pages/dygma-raise-2
[2] https://dygma.com/pages/defy
matthew-craig|1 year ago
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jevndev|1 year ago
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snide|1 year ago
You mention possibly mass producing the next round. Please add a notify email list or something. I'd be all over this.
__mharrison__|1 year ago
The plastic laminate of my ergodoxen was stiff, sturdy, and heavy. The exposed bolts were a little industrial. Very much had a DIY look.
My Lily58 started out with the PCB "case" which is horrible. Way too flexible, and switches falling out as soon as you attempted to transport it. (Easy transport was my main motivation for the smaller keyboard.)
Eventually, I was able to convince someone on Etsy to print me a 3d case for it. It is ok. Much better than the PCBs. However, switches still have a tendency to pop out when moving the keyboard.
The case on the Bayleaf makes me wonder if other keyboards could do a better job with case offerings.
I've always gone with wired keyboards because dealing with batteries seems annoying.
Looking at this keyboard makes me realize that I've optimized for functionality but this beauty is optimized for form.
nicksergeant|1 year ago
nicksergeant|1 year ago
:sobbing:
I hope someone builds / sells this! Instant buy for me, if so.
unitexe|1 year ago
I use this with a small slim keychron keyboard and with a kinesis advantage 360.
The roller seems to be getting a bit sticky after 6 months of heavy use and transporting it between work and home. Nonetheless, would get another in a heartbeat.
Perhaps worth a look?
stronglikedan|1 year ago
lycopodiopsida|1 year ago
elromulous|1 year ago
What an apt typo :)
sgraz|1 year ago
speff|1 year ago
regularfry|1 year ago
jsheard|1 year ago
It's the same story with RP2040 Pro Micros for wired QMK builds, there's a huge "keyboard tax" if you get the ones marketed for that purpose.
voidUpdate|1 year ago
jsheard|1 year ago
There are a few low-profile legended keycap sets around but they typically only cover the "top" layer, which is the easiest to remember anyway. If you want legends which show every function of every key you'd have to get them custom laser etched to match your personal keymap.
klauserc|1 year ago
That said, I have kept the number row labelled. These keys are not obscured by your hands and they can give you the necessary frame of reference. The ideal trade-off for me.
nicholassmith|1 year ago
amarant|1 year ago
It's a really good split keyboard with symbols printed (optional).
https://ultimatehackingkeyboard.com/
milch|1 year ago
The other thing is that many keys will have multiple functions - so what do you print on them? e.g. my j key also doubles as # and the down key. Some are maybe even more frequently used key combinations, e.g. I have a ``` and a => key
CountHackulus|1 year ago
lawn|1 year ago
It's just kind of unnecessary when you can just learn the layout. It's not a big deal, I've used blank keycaps for almost two decades across multiple different layouts.
numpad0|1 year ago
ivanjermakov|1 year ago
1-more|1 year ago
aendruk|1 year ago
I ask myself where I expected it to be, then update the keyboard accordingly. Eventually it doesn’t happen anymore.
varunneal|1 year ago
stavros|1 year ago
Daegalus|1 year ago
I had already used and made my first prototype and realized my thumb cluster was not positioned right and not comfortable for use. So I have the PCBs for the Prototype 2 where the entire bottom row is shifted in. I learned a lot about PCB design and MCUs through this. Yours looks SOOO much better laid out compared to mine too.
Old pictures of prototype 1: https://photos.app.goo.gl/VhqQmjGyzTeBbKFQ9 ( have top and bottom plates, i just never used them because i found the thumb cluster issue quickly) (there is an ErgoDash pictured too that I used previously, modded to be wireless)
Life, becoming a father, moving to a different country, and so many things have put this project on hold, but I will finish it soon.
user68858788|1 year ago
LAC-Tech|1 year ago
Putting the micro-controllers at the far ends means the rest of the board can be lower, meaning less need for palm supports. Also I like you NOT having OLED screens - they're toys at best and one more thing to break at worse.
As for Ortho VS Staggered, ortho has the great advantage of things like WASD just being usable out of the box, and also flexibility with things like numpad layers. I've printed paper cut outs of things like the ferris sweep to see if pinky stagger would be comfortable for me, and the answer was negative. Probably very hand dependent.
Curious why aluminium and not steel? Steel is a heavier, and also has less of that pingy noise, though I have no idea about machining so perhaps it's a no go.
sgraz|1 year ago
Steel is likely better and surely stronger, but manufacturers charge 2x more for steel alloy machining. At that price level, titanium also becomes an interesting option.
jjani|1 year ago
> Typing on the keyboard is very comfortable due to it’s low height. No more wrist arching.
Fully agreed. I went through many keyboards, from very expensive to very cheap, until I found the one my joints were okay with, and I think it was the lowest height of all. A cheap no-name, straight from Aliexpress. I think it's even lower than yours - hard to measure, but looks like ~4mm from table to top of keys. You can tell from the size of the USB-C port [1].
[1] https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sffc2751fa6184967aaa16f2a629ca166...
Umang018|1 year ago
One challenge I’ve seen with wireless keyboards (especially splits) is managing synchronization lag between halves. Some DIY split builds struggle with Bluetooth interference, while others use NRF-based communication. What approach did you take to keep latency low and ensure reliable keypress synchronization? Also, how does the power efficiency compare to something like a ZMK-powered split?
varispeed|1 year ago
happens|1 year ago
I'm also using nice!nanos in my projects, and they're great little devices. At this point I'd love there to be a good alternative using a dongle, though... I have a desktop PC that I want to use them with, and since they can't connect via Bluetooth at boot time, I always have to connect them to select a boot option and unlock my ZFS drive.
Having an affordable or open source controller that can do split as well as nice!nanos, but also switch between Bluetooth and a dongle is like the holy grail to me. I'd instantly buy 10.
milch|1 year ago
cbdumas|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
https://caseend.com/data/acat/acat-x2
Almost 1-1 in dimensions but with thicker panels
noboostforyou|1 year ago
zaruvi|1 year ago
carb|1 year ago
HHalvi|1 year ago
1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVfB_0s470I
geokon|1 year ago
Usually "low profile" is used generously in mechanical keyboard land
roetlich|1 year ago
hinkley|1 year ago
But you also probably should have printed 2x as many keys and split them up for making two copies.
sgraz|1 year ago
emmelaich|1 year ago
jacksontheel|1 year ago
maltalex|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
And the following subs were great for general CAD/Electronic knowledge
* https://www.youtube.com/@Fusion360School * https://www.youtube.com/@adafruit * https://www.youtube.com/@Borgedesigns * https://www.youtube.com/@TheFusionEssentials * https://www.youtube.com/@joe_scotto
rosstex|1 year ago
jabart|1 year ago
azthecx|1 year ago
unknown|1 year ago
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saltcod|1 year ago
unknown|1 year ago
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jjcm|1 year ago
Great writeup as well - thanks for sharing!
mattpavelle|1 year ago
kirillzubovsky|11 months ago
kirillzubovsky|11 months ago
GordonS|1 year ago
I needed an enclosure for a project recently and went with modifying a stock ABS enclosure - but I'd love to use machined aluminium! You mentioned you're in the EU - did PCBway deliver from the US, or from closer to home? Also, how much did the enclosure cost please?
sgraz|1 year ago
flyingpenguin|1 year ago
One feature I decided was a requirement is holding me up. I really want pogo pins on the sides of the keyboards, so that they magnetically attach and the left will charge the right.
How do you charge the left and the right since they require separate cables?
bb88|1 year ago
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Connector-Positions-Pogopin-...
Each battery should probably have their own charging circuit anyway. So the pogo pins should be 5V and ground coming directly from the USB 5V line.
nonethewiser|1 year ago
My main reaction when seeing this was "this is not for me." In terms of the layout, no labels, etc. I'm actually surprised to see how many people seemingly have no problem with this.
egypturnash|1 year ago
ddejohn|1 year ago
Beautiful keyboard.
Sent from my Allium58 Low Profile :D
nacs|1 year ago
rambling|1 year ago
I know quite a few people who would buy if you ever produced even 10 of them. Part 2 having charging magnets would seem good. Me personally, I don't have 2 usb-c ports lying around that aren't already used :P
memhole|1 year ago
szvsw|1 year ago
doubleyou|1 year ago
shawnz|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
Kovah|1 year ago
rmnwski|1 year ago
volemo|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
bschwindHN|1 year ago
nashashmi|1 year ago
halayli|1 year ago
azthecx|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
The cost of all the tools and software I did not track but I would guess I invested somewhere around $1K which includes software licenses, shipping, new tools etc.
But I find tracking the cost of research a bit impractical as it doesn't include indirect costs like billable hours that I technically could have spent on clients etc.
tomlong|1 year ago
jodacola|1 year ago
I would buy one at a premium price point, if you’re interested in a market data point.
donio|1 year ago
jsheard|1 year ago
That arrangement means the peripheral side gets significantly better battery life than the primary, so ZMK also has an optional "dongle" mode where you connect a third ZMK device directly to the PC over USB, which acts as the primary, and then both sides of the keyboard act as peripherals so they both sip power.
As a bonus the dongle mode also means the PC sees it as a wired keyboard so it works in the BIOS, etc.
wnolens|1 year ago
hhheath|1 year ago
one feature I would really like to see is multi-device connectivity/switching like the Logitech MX Keys. Outside of that, this keyboard is my grail board. Looking forward to keeping up with this project!
wucke13|1 year ago
2wrist|1 year ago
EWiggins|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
__mharrison__|1 year ago
(Typed on a Lily58)
whalesalad|1 year ago
However... ever since transitioning to an ergonomic/curved keyboard I don't think that I could ever go back to a traditional layout, even moreso for ortholinear.
ge96|1 year ago
edit: I'll note I prefer the 65-68% keyboards where it has the dedicated arrow keys
NetOpWibby|1 year ago
volemo|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
gatkinso|1 year ago
nakedneuron|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
numbers|1 year ago
goodpoint|1 year ago
Etheryte|1 year ago
nickdichev|1 year ago
thatxliner|1 year ago
HelloUsername|1 year ago
egypturnash|1 year ago
sagarpatil|1 year ago
rpmisms|1 year ago
asoneth|1 year ago
That's useful market information, but note that in the "How much did it cost?" section he points out that the BOM is ~$400 not including labor, tools, or shipping. Going from extremely low-volume to moderately low-volume might reduce material cost slightly, but I'd still expect him to have to charge at least $400 just to break even.
More generally, I've never seen a low-volume split wireless keyboard for less than $200 and the closest in design I can think of would be https://lowprokb.ca/products/corne-ish-zen which had a base price of $320 before pricing in keyswitches or keycaps.
It's totally reasonable that this is your price point and everyone is different -- some people would never pay more than a hundred bucks for a keyboard, whereas I have a couple keyboards that are more expensive than the computers they're connected to.
0cf8612b2e1e|1 year ago
Also add the atrocious security record of HID, and I assume wireless typing is easily intercepted.
acc_297|1 year ago
nwroot|1 year ago
mouse_|1 year ago
derac|1 year ago
unknown|1 year ago
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crazygringo|1 year ago
Then I realized I could just buy two Magic Keyboards and use them at the same time -- typing on the left half of the left one, and the right half of the right one.
After all, the proper ergonomic position is for your forearms to be parallel (not angled inward), which means the keyboard halves you're using should be approximately shoulder-width apart, so there's tons of room to use both without them colliding.
Once I figured it out, I felt like an idiot for not figuring it out a decade earlier. I'm never going back.
MarcelOlsz|1 year ago
Luc|1 year ago
ddanieltan|1 year ago
sgraz|1 year ago
unknown|1 year ago
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samstave|1 year ago
I have these ultra thin bt keyboards that came in a leather ipad case from Restoration Hardware... SUPER THIN.
These bitches better have a lot of magnets! (oh saw that in future. and the LED thingy -- if you can have a display in the side panels, that would be nifty - and a second BT object? Whereby the display in the side panels is BT to phone and thus get distractions.
my problem with small super thin BT keyboards is that the materials are too slippy -- so a tacky-ish finish so they dont slide around when on a surface such as a pant leg or so...
also, a curved version of this would be great for a sleave version - with magnets so that you slap one on your fore-arm. could even have power/connectivity coming from wires in the garment that they attach to.
Magnets basically. Need lots.
--
what if... since the thing is so small, the actual object is the mouse? So you can choose l/r object and then just grab it and mouse about?
ticah65314|1 year ago
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unknown|1 year ago
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unknown|1 year ago
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