[humbleferret]

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

No better way to be reminded there is a big difference between someone that surfs for fun and someone who is a surfer.

Surfing parts aside, this book taught me to appreciate the different parts of your life around your 'obsession' as you get older.

[bwb]

I loved this book, slow start, but pure magic after that.