[jagrsw]

Then again, I'm not certified for solar installations - but standard <1kV home installations and measurements. (As an anecdote, there's a specialty called 'electrical installations for hydrolysis of water' - I shall get certified in that one day just for fun.)

Buy a customer-oriented device instead, if you can. I vaguely remember there are plenty of them on the market with built-in batteries. They should have RCD/GFCI and overcurrent protection (and thermal, and BMS included) per outlet (or per bus).

If you want to stick with your current inverter, here are some thoughts from first principles:

- ground it while using, but this might be hard at a remote camping site (maybe use a grounding rod?). If it's a similar model to the one in the article, it must be grounded.

- a GFCI/RCD rated for 30mA or less with 15-20A circuit breaker (I'd suggest type-A if in EU) that matches your wiring and outlets.

There should be ready-to-go boxes that provide RCD+OC, and maybe you're already using one.

[scotty79]

> ground it while using, but this might be hard at a remote camping site (maybe use a grounding rod?).

What's the point of grounding it? So you can get shocked by touching one wire instead of two?

[jagrsw]

Short answer - treat it as Class I (it has a PE terminal)

Longer: A Class I inverter/appliance relies on PE. A single insulation fault (live -> chassis) will put the chassis at line potential if PE isn’t connected.

If you run other Class-I loads (eg. fridges) downstream of a GFCI but don’t carry PE, a hot-to-chassis fault on the load won’t reliably trip anything until there’s a return path (often a person).